Woven fabric and method of making same



June 20, 1950 5. J. GLUCK 2,512,494

WOVEN FABRIC AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed Feb. 8, 1949 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Fa F7 F70 FA? F H6 H2 F1 on. any standard type loom. weaves the fabric consists of warp and filler threads. In the taffeta or plain Weave alter- Patented June 20, 1950 STATES c-FF-Ict:

Sidney Gluck, Brooklyn, NY.

Application February 8, 1-949, Serial No; 75,099 2' Claims. (o1. 1'39'--?;s4)'

This invention relates to woven fabric having; re-enforcing cords incorporated therein, and to; the method. ofincorporating the cords therein during the weaving of the fabric. I

The fabric may be of anystandard type weave, such as taifeta, twill or satin, and may be woven In all of these nate warp threads successively pass over and under alternate filler threads. in the twill and satin weaves the warp threads pass under a singlefiller thread and then over a plurality of fillerthreadsbefore again-passing under another filler; thread. The only difference between twill andcsati-n weaves is the arrangement of adjacent warp threads to each other. Basically thertwo weaves are the same, the satin weave being but a'modification of the twill weave.

Fabricshaving re enforcihg cords-incorporated therein are oldin theart. Heretofore the cords were woven into the fabric in the arrangement desired in place of the filler threads which would-normally be in-thosepositions. The'cor'd's being of greater diameter than the filler threads projectabove and below the faces of the fabric and create-roughened surfaces both on the front and back faces of the fabric. In making tightiittinggarments which contact the body from 'fabrics of this type, it is necessary to linethe are usually inserted in pairs at definite inter-' vaisas-desired'. They may be of the's'ame material as'the balance ofthc f'abric or they may be of different material. This arrangement and manner of incorporating the re-enforcing cords produces a strengthened fabric having" a rough irregular front face and a smooth flat back face, and eliminates'th'e' necessity for'lining' the fabric when it used; in the manufacture of tight-fit"- tinggarments which contact the body.

The primary objectof my invention is toprm vide a fabric having a smooth flat backsiirface 2.. and a plurality of r'e-enrorcmg" cords superim posed upon the front surfacethereof.

Another object df the' invention ijs'tb prbvide a fabric Of'this typewitho'ut disturbing. the basic weave thereof.

Another Object or the invention is to prOVidG a process of weavi rig' rabn'c of this type upon standard looms.

Other and more limited ob'jets of the inventlOfl will beapparent fi'dlf'n'th'e fbl lowihgispecification and'the' acc mpanying" drawings forming. a part thereof wherein Fig. I is an enlarged diagrammatic plan view of a section of plain qr: taffeta fabric wove'n accc irdin'g" to my inventidfi,v the spacing between the threads beinggreatly exaggerated for the urpose Of iuustratioh;

Fig. 2 is; a transverse section taken on 111152 orFi'g. 1;

Fig. 3 is. an enlarged. section taken on'the line 33 of Fig. 1;

Fig-.- 4 is anemarga' sectio'n tak en -on the line 44 (ifFig 1 v I Figs. 5 and 6' re; viewssimilar to Figs;- 3 and 4' showing a slightly modified i form of my invention; I U

F g. 7 is aview similar to Fig. 1 of a section of standard five shaftsa-tin fabric woven according to my invention;v and Figs. 8, 9,-10,"11" and 12" are transverse sections taken on the lines 8''8',I -Q'; lfl-IU, H"l I and [2-1 2 respectively, of Fig. -7

Moststandard looms in use today include a harness which consists of a I plurality of frames, each of which; hasmountecl therein a; plurality of heddles. The warp threads are all'mounted upon a spool and extend through selected heddles. The arrangement of the warp threads with-respect to the-hedd-les determinesthe type of-wea-ve and the pattern ofthe fabric. During weavingselected frames aresuccessivelyraised and lowered at predetermined times as the warp threads are withdrawn from the spool; The fabric is'wound onto another spool as it is woven. This rais'es and lowers the warp. threads passing through the h'eddles carriedby then-arses, which isg'enerany. as sheddiflg The raising and lowering O fthe frames [is controlled by either a card or a chain, depending upon the type of loo-mt While the selected warp threads are raised a shuttle inserts a filler thread transversely of and between the raised and lowered war threads} Th' fill'ifl threadis then beaten up. intdprd'pf lib s'it'ibtri liyfihe fdrwar'dmiitidn oft'he reed. A let-off which controls the" feed the ing of warp threads from the spool releases the warp threads during the beating operation and allows a predetermined length of warp threads to be pushed forwardly by the reed during the beating up of each filler thread. After each beating everything is in position for the next selected set of warp threads to be shedded and the next filler thread inserted thereunder.

In weaving re-enforced fabric according to my invention I first Weave as above described until it is desired to insert a reenforcing cord. The harness controlled by the card or chain then sheds selected warp threads, preferably one thread out of every six to ten threads, and a cord is then inserted parallel to the filler threads between the raised and lowered warp threads. The re-enforcing cord is then beaten up into place by the reed. However, during the beating of the re-enforcing cords I hold back the let-off so that there is no feeding forwardly of the warp threads at this time. 13yv stopping the feeding orthe warp threads during the beating of the re-enforcing cords I cause the reed to force the re-enforcing cords into position above both the filler threads and the underlying warp threads, as is shown in Figs. 2 to 6 and 8 to 12. After a reenforcing cord is inserted I resume normal'weaving until it is again desired to insert another cord. The holding back of the let-off during the insertion of the re-enforcin cords assures the even spacing of all the filler threads which is necessary to provide a smooth fiat back surface to the fabric. Instead of inserting only one cord at predetermined intervals I prefer to insert two cords, as shown in the drawings, before resuming normal weaving. In inserting two cords, side by side, the let-01f is held back during the insertion of both cords and is not released until the next filler thread is inserted. Alsoafter the first cord is inserted a different set of warp threads are shedded and the second cord inserted thereunder. The normal weaving is then resumed.

In Figs. 1 to 6 inclusive of the drawing I have illustrated a section of fabric, having a taffeta or plain weave, constructed according to my invention. Referring now first to Figs. 1 to 6 inclusive by reference characters, I have designated the warp threads as WI to WI 6 inclusive, and the filler threads as F6 to F23 inclusive. CI and C2 indicate one pair of re-enforcing cords and C3 and C4 indicate another pair of re-enforcing cords which are spaced-from the first pair the desired distance. Between the filler cords FIE and Fl 6 I have indicated a break in the fabric to show that the cords C3 and C4 are spaced much farther from the cords CI and C2 than would otherwise seem to be indicated by the drawings. Obviously the spacing of the re-enforcing cords is dependent upon the fabric desired. In some cases they may be farther apart than in others. As will be apparent from the drawings the reenforcing cords CI and C2 and C3 and C4 are disposed above and parallel to the filler threads. They are also disposed above the great majority of the warp threads. The cord CI is disposed under and held in position by the warp threads WI, WI and WI3. The cord C2, which lies closely adjacent to cord CI is disposed under and is held in position by the warp threads W4 and WIII. The re-enforcing cord C3 is disposed under and held in position by the warp threads W3, W9 and WI 5, while the re-enforcing cord C4 is disposed under and held in position by the warpthreads W6 and WI2. However, this arrangement of the warp threads with respect to the two sets of re-enforc- 4 ing cords is not essential, as the cords Cl and C3 could be disposed under any of the odd numbered warp threads and the cords C2 and C4 could be disposed under any of the even numbered warp threads. For instance, if desired, the cord C3 could also be held in position by the warp threads WI, WI and WI3. In weaving my improved fabric as shown in Figs. 1 to 6 inclusive, alternate Warp threads are raised or shedded and the filler threads are inserted thereunder; and above the threads which have not been raised. For instance, in inserting filler thread PT, the odd numbered warp threads WI, W3, W5, etc, are

under these threads and over the even numbered threads W2, W4, W6, etc. After the filler thread Fl hasbeen inserted it is beaten into position by the reed. As it is beaten into position the let-off is released allowing a predetermined length of the warp threads to be fed from the spool on which they are mounted. After the filler thread F8 has been inserted and beaten into position the warp threads WI, WI and WI3 are raised or shedded and the reenforcing cord CI is inserted thereundergand over the balance of the warp threads. The let-01f is then held back and the cord CI beaten into the position shown in the drawings by the reed. While the let-off is still held back the warp threads W4, Wlil, etc. are shedded or raised and the re-enforcing cord C2 is inserted thereunder, and over the balance of the warp threads. The normal weaving is then resumed by shedding or raising the odd numbered cords WI, W3, W5, etc; and the filler thread F9 is inserted. The reed then beats the filler thread F9 into position as the let-off releases a predetermined length of warp threads. The even numbered warp threads are then shedded andthe filler thread FIB inserted and beaten into lace. The normal weaving then continues until the filler thread F20 has been inserted and beaten into place. After this the re-enforcing cords C3 and C4 are woven in, in thesame manner as described in connection with re-enforcing cords CI and C2, after which the normal weaving is'again resumed.

The manner in which the warp threads engage the re-enforcing cords is clearly shown in Figs. 3 and 4. By referringto Fig. 3 it will be seen that the warp threads WIfW'I, etc. pass under the filler thread F8 and thence up and over the filler thread F8 and under the re-enforcing cord CI-. It then passes up and over the re-enforcingcord CI, thence under the cordCZ and over the filler thread F8 and thence under and over alternate filler threads until it is desired to insert thenext pair of re-enforcing cords C3 and C4. The warp threads W4, WIII, etc. which hold the .cordaC2 in place, pass under the cord Cl and 'overthe filler thread F8, thence over and under thecord C2Jand .then over and under the 'filler;thread F9, after which it alternatelypasses over-andunder successive filler threads; As will be seen :from the drawings, the re-enforcing cords are disposed against one face of the fabric, without .disturbing the regular spacing of the filler threads thus leaving the other face of the fabric smooth and fiat. Y

In Figs. 5 and 6 I have shown a slightly modified form of the fabric just described. Infthis form two adjacent warp threads are disposed over the re-enforcing cords. The first thread WI, referring to Fig. 5, engages'th'e cordCI in the same manner as shown inFig. 3. The adjacent thread W2 also passes over the cord CL: Fig. Gishows how the re-enforcing cord C2 is engaged by both the warp threads W4 and W5. This arrangement further re-enforces the fabric and presents a slightly different appearance thereto. It gives the appearance of stitching, making it appear as though the re-enforcing cords were stitched to the fabric rather than woven thereon.

In Figs. 7 to 12 inclusive I have illustrated my invention as incorporated in a fabric having a standard five shaft satin weave. In this type of weave, as previously stated, the warp threads pass under a filler thread and thence over a plurality of filler threads before again passing under another filler thread. In Figs. 7 to 12 inclusive I have shown one block consisting of five warp threads and ten filler threads. It is understood that this arrangement of the threads is successively repeated as the fabric is woven. The warp threads are designated W3I, W32, W33, W34 and W35 and the filler threads are designated F3| to F40 inclusive. The re-enforcing cords are designated C5 and C6. As will be seen by Figs. 7 and 8, the warp thread W3| passes under the filler thread F3l, thence over the filler threads F32, F34 and F35 and then under the filler thread F36, after which it passes over the filler threads F31, F38, F39 and F40, before again passin under filler thread F3 I. The next adjacent warp thread W32 first passes over filler threads F3l and F32, then under filler thread F33 and over filler threads F34, F35, F36 and F31, after which it passes under filler thread F38 and thence over filler threads F39 and F40. The warp threads W33, W34 and W35 pass over and under the filler threads as shown in Figs. 10, 11 and 12. The reenfor-cing cord C5 is disposed under warp threads W32 and over the balance of the threads, while the re-enforcing cord C3 is disposed under warp threads W35 and over the balance thereof. The re-enforcing cords C5 and C6 arewoven onto the fabric in the same manner as described in connection with Figs. 1 to 4 inclusive.

From the foregoing it will be apparent to those skilled in this art that I have provided an improved fabric having re-enforcing cords incorporated therein in such a manner as to provide a smooth flat back face, with the cords disposed entirely upon the front face of the fabric. It will also be apparent that I have provided a very simple process by which my improved fabric may be woven upon standard type looms.

v It is to be understood that I am not restricted to the specific construction shown and described herein, as various modifications may be made thereto within the scope of the appended claims.

What I claim is:

1. A method of weaving reinforced fabric upon a loom having a let-off for successively releasing predetermined lengths of warp threads and a reed for beating the filler threads into place comprising, weaving a predetermined length of fabric by the successive steps of shedding, laying a filler, let-off and beating, then while holding back the let-off, shedding less than the usual number of warp threads, inserting a, reinforcing cord in the shed and beating, again shedding less than the usual number of warp threads, inserting a second reinforcing cord in the shed and beating, then resuming the first sequence of shedding, laying a filler, let-01f and beating.

2. In a woven fabric having warp and filler threads, a plurality of pairs of re-enforcing cords superimposed upon one face of said fabric at spaced intervals from each other, each of said cords being disposed directly over a filler thread, over a majority of said warp threads and under the balance of said warp threads, at least some of said last mentioned warp threads also passing under the filler thread directly under said cord, the warp threads which pass over a cord of one pair passing under both cords of the next adjacent pair.

SIDNEY J. GLUCK.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in th file of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 1,257,706 Hedler Feb. 26, 1918 1,631,531 Hollingworth June 7, 1927 1,741,345 Schwartz Dec. 31, 1929 1,932,981 Milnes Oct. 31, 1933 2,105,190 Jackson Jan. 11, 1938 2,309,825 Burdett Feb. 2, 1943 2,424,771 Prenata July 29, 1947 

